How to Apply Eyeshadow on Hooded Eyes: Techniques That Actually Work

Hooded eyes are one of the most common eye shapes — and one of the most misunderstood when it comes to makeup. The hood (the fold of skin that droops over the crease) can make traditional eyeshadow techniques look muddy, disappear entirely when the eyes are open, or create a heavy, closed-off appearance. But with the right techniques, hooded eyes can look just as dramatic, defined, and beautiful as any other eye shape. Here’s everything you need to know.

What Are Hooded Eyes?

Hooded eyes have a fold of skin (the hood) that hangs over the crease, partially or fully covering the eyelid when the eyes are open. This means that eyeshadow applied to the lid in the traditional way may not be visible when the eyes are open — and the crease appears lower than it actually is.

The key to hooded eye makeup is working above the natural crease to create the illusion of a higher, more defined lid space.

The Golden Rule: Apply with Eyes Open

This is the most important technique for hooded eyes. Always check your eyeshadow placement with your eyes open, not closed. What looks perfectly placed with eyes closed may be completely hidden — or look too low — when the eyes are open.

Apply your transition shade and crease colour slightly higher than you think you need to, then open your eyes to check placement before blending.

Step-by-Step: Eyeshadow for Hooded Eyes

Step 1 – Prime the lid thoroughly
Eye primer is non-negotiable for hooded eyes. The hood creates friction that causes eyeshadow to crease and transfer quickly. Apply a thin layer of eye primer across the entire lid and up to the brow bone, then set with a skin-toned matte eyeshadow.

Step 2 – Apply a transition shade higher than usual
Load the Blending Eye Shadow Brush with a matte transition shade and apply it above where you think your crease is — higher than feels natural. Open your eyes to check: the transition shade should be visible above the hood when your eyes are open.

Step 3 – Build depth above the crease
Apply a deeper shade above the transition shade using the Precision Eye Shadow Brush. Focus the depth at the outer corner and blend upward and outward — never downward, which will close the eye further.

Step 4 – Keep the lid light
Apply a light, shimmery shade to the visible part of the lid (the area below the hood that’s visible when eyes are open). This catches light and makes the eye appear larger. Use the Large Eye Shadow Brush for even coverage.

Step 5 – Highlight the inner corner and brow bone
Use the Eye Detail Brush to apply a bright highlight shade to the inner corner of the eye. This opens the eye and creates the illusion of more lid space. Apply a matte highlight to the brow bone to lift the brow and create more visible space between the lid and brow.

Step 6 – Define with liner strategically
For hooded eyes, thick liner on the upper lid can make the eye look smaller. Instead, use the Detail Brush to apply a thin line of dark eyeshadow or gel liner as close to the lash line as possible. Extend the liner slightly upward at the outer corner to create a subtle lift.

Step 7 – Focus on the lower lash line
The lower lash line is highly visible on hooded eyes and is one of the best places to add definition. Apply a medium-depth shade along the lower lash line with the Eye Detail Brush, focusing on the outer two-thirds for a lifting effect.

Techniques That Open Up Hooded Eyes

• Cut crease – use concealer and the Eye Detail Brush to carve a precise line above the natural crease, creating the illusion of a higher, more defined lid space
• Halo eye – apply a light shimmer shade to the centre of the lid with darker shades at the inner and outer corners; this creates the illusion of a rounder, more open eye
• Lifted liner – extend your liner upward at the outer corner rather than following the natural lash line; this creates a lifting effect that counteracts the drooping hood
• Fluffy lashes – well-curled lashes with mascara combed through with the Eyelash Brush open the eye dramatically

What to Avoid with Hooded Eyes

• Dark shades all over the lid – this makes the eye look smaller and heavier
• Thick liner on the upper lid – reduces the visible lid space further
• Blending downward – always blend upward and outward to lift the eye
• Skipping primer – without primer, eyeshadow will crease and transfer onto the hood within hours

The Best Palettes for Hooded Eyes

For hooded eyes, you need palettes with a strong range of matte transition shades alongside shimmer lid shades:

👉 Golden Collection Eyeshadow Palette – warm mattes and shimmers perfect for creating depth above the crease
👉 Eyeshadow Palette – Vibes – versatile shade range with strong matte transition options
👉 Blending Eye Shadow Brush – essential for blending above the crease
👉 Precision Eye Shadow Brush – for precise depth placement above the hood
👉 Eye Detail Brush – for inner corner highlight and lower lash line definition

Hooded eyes aren’t a limitation — they’re a canvas. Master the technique, and you’ll create eye looks that are just as stunning as any other eye shape.