Expert Eyeshadow Application Tips for Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyes — where a fold of skin partially or fully covers the eyelid when the eyes are open — are one of the most common eye shapes, and one of the most misunderstood when it comes to makeup. With the right techniques, hooded eyes can be absolutely stunning. Here's your expert guide to eyeshadow application that flatters and enhances hooded eyes.
Understanding Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyes have a fold of skin that droops over the crease, often making the eyelid appear smaller or less visible when the eyes are open. This means that eyeshadow placed directly on the lid may not be visible when the eyes are open — so placement needs to be adjusted accordingly. The key is to work above the natural crease and focus depth on the outer areas to create lift and definition.
1. Always Prime Your Lids
Eye primer is especially important for hooded eyes, as the skin-on-skin contact in the crease area causes eyeshadow to crease and transfer more quickly. Apply a thin, even layer of primer across the entire lid and up to the brow bone, and allow it to set fully before applying any eyeshadow. This significantly improves longevity and prevents the dreaded transfer onto the brow bone.
2. Apply Your Transition Shade Above the Crease
For hooded eyes, the transition shade should be placed slightly above the natural crease — higher than you might think. When your eyes are open, this is the area that will be visible. Use a fluffy blending brush and apply the shade in windscreen-wiper motions, blending upward to create a soft, diffused gradient.
3. Focus Depth on the Outer V
Concentrate your darkest eyeshadow shade on the outer V of the eye — the outer corner and outer crease. Blend the shade upward and outward in a slightly lifted direction to create the illusion of a lifted, elongated eye shape. Avoid placing dark shades across the entire lid, which can make hooded eyes appear heavier and more closed.
4. Choose Matte Shades for the Lid
For hooded eyes, matte eyeshadow shades on the lid are generally more flattering than shimmers. Shimmer reflects light and can draw attention to the hooded fold, making it more prominent. Reserve shimmer for the inner corner and the centre of the lid for a brightening effect, and keep the crease and outer areas matte for definition.
5. Brighten the Inner Corner
Apply a light, shimmery shade or highlighter to the inner corner of the eye to open up the eye area and create the illusion of a wider, more awake eye. This simple step makes a significant difference to the overall appearance of hooded eyes and takes just seconds to apply.
6. Try a Cut Crease
A cut crease is one of the most effective techniques for hooded eyes. Use a small concealer brush to apply concealer in a curved line above the natural crease, creating a defined boundary. Apply your lid colour below this line and your crease colour above it. This technique creates a visible lid space even when the eyes are open, making the look appear more dramatic and defined.
7. Use a Subtle Winged Liner
A thin, upward-angled wing at the outer corner of the eye elongates and lifts hooded eyes beautifully. Keep the liner thin and close to the lash line, and angle the wing slightly upward rather than straight out. Avoid thick liner across the entire upper lid, which can make hooded eyes appear smaller.
8. Curl Lashes and Apply Mascara
Curling your lashes is particularly important for hooded eyes — uncurled lashes can touch the hooded skin above, causing smudging and making eyes appear smaller. Curl thoroughly at the base and tips, then apply a lengthening mascara to both upper and lower lashes for a wide-eyed, open effect.
9. Use Waterproof Formulas
Hooded eyes are more prone to transfer and smudging due to the skin contact in the crease area. Choose waterproof or long-wear eyeshadow formulas and set your look with a translucent setting powder to minimise transfer throughout the day.
10. Apply Makeup with Eyes Open
When applying eyeshadow for hooded eyes, check your work with your eyes open rather than closed. What looks perfectly placed with eyes closed may not be visible — or may be in the wrong position — when eyes are open. Adjust placement as needed to ensure the colours are visible and flattering when your eyes are fully open.
Läs mer
- What Is a Transition Shade in Eye Makeup?
- Eyeshadow Blending Techniques for a Seamless Look
- How to Make Your Eyes Appear Bigger with Makeup
✨ Shop Eye Makeup — Perfect for Hooded Eyes
Get the tools and palettes you need for stunning hooded eye looks at Brittany Cosmetics:
- Eyeshadow Palette – Levinna — Neutral mattes and shimmers — ideal transition and lid shades for hooded eyes.
- Eyeshadow Palette – Blitz — Rich, deep mattes for outer V definition and dramatic hooded eye looks.
- Blending Brush — The essential tool for seamless blending above the crease.
- Angled Brush — Precision liner and cut crease application for defined, lifted eyes.
- Eyeshadow Brush — Precise colour packing on the lid for maximum impact.
