Contouring and highlighting are two of the most transformative techniques in makeup — and two of the most misunderstood. Done well, they sculpt the face, add dimension, and create the appearance of perfectly balanced features. Done badly, they look muddy, grey, and stripy. The difference is knowing your face shape and understanding where light and shadow naturally fall. This guide covers everything you need to contour and highlight like a professional.
The Principle Behind Contouring and Highlighting
Contouring uses a shade darker than your skin tone to create shadow — making areas recede and appear smaller or more defined. Highlighting uses a shade lighter than your skin tone (or a shimmery product) to bring areas forward — making them appear more prominent and catching the light.
Together, they work the way a photographer uses light and shadow: to define structure, add depth, and create dimension on a flat surface.
The key rule: contour where you want shadow, highlight where light naturally hits.
Step 1: Identify Your Face Shape
The placement of contour and highlight varies depending on your face shape. The six most common face shapes are:
- Oval — balanced proportions; the most versatile shape for makeup
- Round — similar width and length; soft angles and full cheeks
- Square — strong jawline and forehead of similar width
- Heart — wider forehead, narrower jawline, often with a pointed chin
- Oblong/Long — face is longer than it is wide
- Diamond — narrow forehead and jawline, widest at the cheekbones
To identify your face shape, pull your hair back and trace your face outline in a mirror, or take a front-facing photo and compare proportions.
Where to Contour and Highlight by Face Shape
Oval Face
Oval faces are naturally balanced — the goal is to enhance what is already there rather than reshape.
- Contour: lightly under the cheekbones, along the temples, and along the jawline
- Highlight: centre of the forehead, bridge of the nose, cupid’s bow, centre of the chin, and tops of the cheekbones
Round Face
The goal with a round face is to add length and definition to the sides.
- Contour: sides of the forehead, directly under the cheekbones (angled toward the ear), and along the jawline. Avoid contouring the chin as this shortens the face further.
- Highlight: centre of the forehead, down the bridge of the nose, and a vertical strip down the centre of the chin to create length
Square Face
The goal with a square face is to soften the strong angles of the forehead and jaw.
- Contour: corners of the forehead (to round them), under the cheekbones, and along the corners of the jawline to soften the square shape
- Highlight: centre of the forehead, tops of the cheekbones, centre of the chin
Heart Face
The goal with a heart face is to balance the wider forehead with the narrower chin.
- Contour: temples and sides of the forehead to reduce width, lightly along the cheekbones
- Highlight: centre of the forehead, bridge of the nose, and — importantly — highlight the chin to add width and balance the pointed base
Oblong/Long Face
The goal with a long face is to add width and reduce length.
- Contour: hairline at the top of the forehead and along the chin to shorten the face visually
- Highlight: across the cheekbones horizontally to add width
Diamond Face
The goal with a diamond face is to add width to the forehead and chin while keeping the cheekbones prominent.
- Contour: lightly under the cheekbones to define without adding more width
- Highlight: temples (to widen the forehead), tops of cheekbones, and the chin to balance the narrow jawline
Choosing Your Contour Product
Contour products come in several formulas — each with different results:
- Powder contour — the easiest to blend and most forgiving. Best for normal to oily skin. Apply with an angled contour brush for precision.
- Cream contour — gives a more natural, skin-like result. Best for dry to normal skin. Apply before powder products and blend with a brush or sponge.
- Stick contour — the most convenient for quick application. Draw on with the stick and blend immediately.
Shade rule: your contour shade should be 2–3 shades darker than your skin tone and have a cool, grey-brown undertone — not orange or red, which look unnatural.
Choosing Your Highlight Product
- Powder highlighter — gives a buildable, luminous glow. Apply on top of powder foundation and blush. The Magical Glow Blush from Brittany Cosmetics adds a radiant luminosity to the high points of the face beautifully.
- Liquid or cream highlighter — gives a more natural, lit-from-within glow. Mix into foundation or apply on bare skin before powder products.
- Matte highlight — a concealer or foundation slightly lighter than your skin tone used to brighten without shimmer. Ideal for daytime and natural looks.
The Right Brushes for Contouring and Highlighting
Using the wrong brush is the most common reason contouring looks unblended and harsh. These Brittany Cosmetics brushes are ideal:
- Blending Brush — for blending contour seamlessly into foundation with no harsh lines
- Fan Brush — perfect for applying a light, diffused highlighter to the tops of cheekbones
- Powder Brush — for setting the face and dusting away excess product after contouring
- Foundation Brush — for stippling cream contour into the skin for a seamless result
Step-by-Step Contouring Routine
- Apply your base — foundation and concealer first; contour always goes on top of base
- Apply contour — use a light hand; start with less product and build gradually
- Blend immediately — blend upward and outward in circular motions until there are no visible edges
- Apply blush — smile and apply to the apples of the cheeks, blending upward toward the temple
- Apply highlight — to the high points of the face: tops of cheekbones, bridge of the nose, cupid’s bow, brow bone, and inner corners of the eyes
- Set — dust lightly with translucent powder to lock everything in place
Common Contouring Mistakes to Avoid
- Using a shade that is too warm or orange — contour should mimic natural shadow, which is cool-toned
- Applying too low on the cheek — contour goes under the cheekbone, not on the cheek itself
- Not blending enough — visible stripes of contour are the most common mistake; blend until you cannot see where it starts or ends
- Applying highlighter to areas you want to minimise — highlight draws attention; only apply it where you want the eye to be drawn
- Skipping the nose contour when needed — a thin line of contour down each side of the nose and a small amount on the tip can slim and define beautifully
Final Thoughts
Contouring and highlighting are skills that improve dramatically with practice. Once you know your face shape and understand where light and shadow fall naturally, you will be able to sculpt and enhance your features with confidence. Explore the full Brittany Cosmetics brush collection to find the tools that will make your contouring effortless and professional.